How goats handle the cold and what you should know.

Wanted to share some "urban goats in the snow" wisdom from friend and local goat expert Lacia Lynn:

 

"Cashmere is the undercoat of goats, so they are plenty warm as long as they are DRY, and if they have ample hay and LIQUID WATER.  Make sure they can get to water EASILY and don't have to go thru wet spot or weather obstacle to get to their water.  It's the fermenting hay in their belly rumen that keeps them warm, and it takes more water than usual as in the cold they are eating more hay than usual.

 

If you add an extra "inside" bucket of water for them, make sure to hang it above pooping level so it stays clean.

 

Goats generally adore warm water on cold days, take some out to yours and enjoy how extra fluffy and cuddly they are on a day like today.  Mine climb into my lap, even the big ones get as much of themselves in my lap as possible, LOL, and they just the best!

 

Goat herd politics: 

Be extra aware if they are pushing any one goat out of a common shelter, even if they are normally very nice to each other.  I pulled  a significantly pregnant one of mine into my milking area, to get her out of any possible risk of nonsense.  I do also add a temporary extra tub of hay and one of water to lessen any risk of someone hogging the resources indoors.  Keep those high enough that they can't get ruined by poor or pee, otherwise it'll look full to you, but not edible for them.   As adorable and wonderful as I think goats are, without training they are not especially aware or thoughtful about where/when they poop or pee.  Many of you know I have some that are close to housebroken for short periods of time, they seem to get the concept, but that doesn't apply in their own space unless you work on training that too.  Some folks do, most find it easier to just keep food and water above rear end level.

 

Goats don't need grain for this level of cold.  Best is just hay and water that is inviting to drink (accessible without weather obstacles, and not too cold) is best.

 

This is a time to feed lower protein if they are "indoors" without great air circulation. So cut back on any grain and high protein alfalfa a bit.  Just for a couple days of this, don't change their diet drastically.  For most goats, cut grain and high protein alfalfa by 1/3 to 1/2.   If they have recently kidded (given birth) then change NOTHING except add extra accessible warm water.  If they are heavy bred (kidding the next month or so, and looking very big), cut back grain/alfalfa only 1/4 to 1/3.  

 

Its the fiber in the hay that the microbes ferment that keeps the goats warm.  Any excess protein just makes ammonia stronger in urine, and that's a respiratory risk in confined quarters.  I'll also do just a little spot cleaning or adding extra wood shavings/pellets to their bedding in any wet spots.  The  fine line between good air circulation but no drafts, is part of what makes a GREAT goat shelter.  Designs based on your microclimate, and nearby buildings and features that make wind do atypical patterns are key for moving from "having" goats to being a really good goat keeper.  

 

If you want to practice your observation skills, and improve your set up and goat keeping standards, notice where they are hanging out, and go visit the part of their shelter that they aren't hanging out in.  Most times you'll find a funny slight air movement coming around a corner etc if you wet your finger and hold it up in the air.  There's just far too many things for air to move around in weird ways in city environments especially, no one can really predict every little breeze eddy.  This is why I teach to use moveable shelters the first year with goats.  You want to observe and accept feedback from your system and make appropriate changes.  Its harder to to that if you've got a big investment in a building set up already.  Balancing refining your moveable set up with noise concerns and needing a place a door that closes for many city goat situations is a different post.  <smile>  I'll try to blog about that if I get enough folks asking and before the big rush of kids comes in spring and we have a lot of new goat keepers.

 

Goats will "survive" in far less than ideal circumstances, but to have them "thrive" and maximize their yield to you in our tight city spaces where every inch counts, the details of goat keeping and design can make a big difference in their health, yields, and your sanity and amount of work to do. 

 

Back to more direct snow topic...

 

When the active snowing stops, they usually go run and frolic and just have a great time in the snow!

 

When they are done running around in the snow, pay attention if any are limping a bit, check for snow packed into an ice ball around their toes.   Its not common, but can happen.  The shaggier ones are at more risk as the snow collects on the shaggy fur vs less snow collecting and more melting faster on goats with less fur.  In this weather, its very unlikely, but theoretically possible they could get a little frostbite spot with enough of an ice ball.  If you do want to remove and ice ball, depending on where/how its attached to the foot, sometimes it can be easily broken, or poor a bit of warm water on it but THEN make sure they go inside and not back out in the snow with a wet foot. 

 

Really, this weather is not "cold" from the average goat's ability to handle weather.   If you've got one that is old, or has bad teeth, or thin fur, then of course take extra precautions, but for most goats, just keep them in hay and warm water, and lowering their protein just a little, is plenty good.  If you do have baby kids, that's a longer topic to cover everything to make sure they are warm and getting enough extra food. "